There’s nothing quite like soaking in a hot spring or sweating in a natural volcanic sauna to recuperate after leading a Quetzaltrekkers trip through the Guatemalan highlands.
As someone who’s sought out hot springs on six continents, this natural local bounty is one of my favourite aspects of living in Xela and my go-to whenever I come back from a trip.
This unreliable review is based on my 100% arbitrary personal preferences over the past year. Depending on my mood on the day, I now rotate between revisiting Aguas Amargas, Las Cumbres or Bamari in Almolonga.
Fuentes Georginas
Rating:
Type: Open air hot springs
Pluses: The best-known hot springs in the Xela area, and the lower pools (reached via a stepped path) are amazing, rarely crowded and absolutely worth the extra cost and effort. There are also less-frequented pools in the gully in the car park, between the gate and the first buildings of the resort.
Minuses: The main pools are only lukewarm and can be rammed on weekends, and patchy phone reception can mean it can be tough to get public transport back to Xela from the resort.
Cost: Q65 plus Q15 to park and Q25 extra for the awesome lower pools, which are absolutely worth it.
Other facilities: Restaurant, cabins and steep hiking paths leading to Volcan Zunil.
How to get there: You can get a bus to Zunil via Cantel for Q7, which will take you to the signposted turnoff, 8.5km from the pools. Local taxis then charge about Q60 to take you to the pools. Or depending on the time of day, Uber charges Q60-80 from downtown Xela and is much easier. Getting back via Uber can be a mission, with phone signal often marginal at the resort. Or best of all, you can hike there via an overnight expedition with Quetzaltrekkers, which will definitely justify a long recuperative soak!
Location: https://maps.app.goo.gl/boXiZircXkDc7xYK6
Aguas Amargas
Rating:
Type: Two open air hot springs and private indoor pools
Pluses: My favourite pools in the Xela area, with lots of the benefits of Fuentes Georgina and few of the minuses. The view of Volcán Santa Maria from the main pools is amazing.
Minuses: The private bath in the room I was allocated was already full, so I might not have been the first to use the water, and the place is a bit grimy. Also the design doesn’t have a zone to wash off before getting into the pool. The main outdoor pools are in the sun from around 9:30am.
Cost: Q25 for the two public pools or Q30 for banos privados.
Other facilities: There are walking paths heading up into the hills from the resort and a Mayan altar, which was pretty popular when I was there. Apart from a hotel and tiendas down the road, there are no facilities.
How to get there: Uber charges Q60-80 from downtown Xela. Otherwise you can either (a) catch a bus towards Retalhuleu (Q10?), get off just before the tunnel (https://maps.app.goo.gl/E27jvsxTeKhw35raA) then walk 1.6km to the pools or (b) catch a bus from the Shell in Zona 1 of Xela https://maps.app.goo.gl/Ta1enCBA3E1okzUJ9 to Zunil (Q7) then a pickup (Q5) to the terminus, from which it’s about a 1km walk uphill to the pools. For Q15-20 extra, the pickup driver will often drive you to the pools.
Location: https://maps.app.goo.gl/dNywhYfAT8Pr92WeA
Las Cumbres Eco-Hotel, Termalismo y Spa
Rating:
Type: Natural volcanic sauna
Pluses: The entire area is a series of natural volcanic vents, some of which the hotel has channeled into suites that contain sauna rooms, for which those not staying can get day passes. The temperature is very hot but each sauna has a cold shower which will revitalise you for another session inside. Leaving the sauna door ajar helps moderate the heat.
Minuses: The temperature meant I rarely lasted more than five minutes in the sauna or usually managed to sit on anything other than the lowest of the three tiers of seating. Hot water drips from the ceiling onto you. This is the only thermal resort near Xela where booking ahead is sometimes required.
Cost: Q40
Other facilities: A spa and bougie restaurant is attached. Coffee and cake cost about Q50. There are rooms, apparently with private baths.
How to get there: Uber charges Q45-55 or catch a bus towards Retalhuleu (Q10?), which goes past the resort, or catch a bus from the Shell in Zona 1 of Xela https://maps.app.goo.gl/Ta1enCBA3E1okzUJ9 to Zunil (Q7) then a pickup (Q3) or taxi (Q15) to the resort. Easy and frequent public transport directly outside makes it easier to get back to Xela than most other thermal resorts.
Location: https://maps.app.goo.gl/WGVkXQt8F3wja5Wi9
Hostal Y Sauna Natural Los Vahos Xela
Rating:
Type: Natural volcanic sauna
Pluses: Very close to Xela and uncrowded, even on weekends. Amazing value. Excellent temperature in the sauna. Sauna rooms range from small (two people) to much bigger. This place is a much more basic version of Las Cumbres volcanic sauna.
Minuses: The rough access road can prompt mutinies from Uber drivers, the whole place is a bit grimy and the guy running it didn´t have change for Q30 so that´s what I ended up (over)paying. There can be a cranky dog at the resort.
Cost: Q25.
Other facilities: A very basic tienda for drinks and snacks.
How to get there: Uber charges Q25-30 for a car and Q18-22 for a moto, but expect a mutiny or at least grumbling from the driver over the state of the unpaved road. My moto driver was so uncomfortable I got off and walked the last 1.5km to the resort then walked back down via La Pedrera to 9a Avenida, near the Xelapan factory. Alternatively, it’s a 90 minute hike from Zona 1 of Xela.
Location: https://maps.app.goo.gl/7rD9zk2c1YifQAFA6
Turicentro CHICOVIX
Rating:
Type: Open air pool and private indoor hot springs.
Pluses: Great value and close to Xela. Awesome location with hexagonal volcanic pillars nearby. Unlike most hot springs, it’s open until 9pm.
Minuses: The main pool is only lukewarm and was being used by school groups when I was there. The temperature of the thermal water to the private pools meant you didn’t need to add any cold water, which is not great for those who like their water really hot. You’re supposed to bring your own mini bucket to wash with but the guy running it felt sorry for me and lent me one.
Cost: Q5 to swim in the pool, Q15 for a small private pool (enough for two) or Q40 for a large pool.
Other facilities: Basic tienda and picnic facilities near the car park.
How to get there: Uber charges Q50-60 or catch a bus to Zunil via Cantel (Q7) then get off here (https://maps.app.goo.gl/USzzDZBEpm7jV3md8) and walk 600m to the resort.
Location: https://maps.app.goo.gl/7Up7ZM96U2skbonB9
Bamari Baños Termales y Medicinales
Rating:
Type: Private hot springs.
Pluses: The closest and easiest to access hot springs near Xela. They’re also cleaner (or at least more-recently renovated) than most of the many other similar establishments in Almolonga.
Minuses: None really. It’s cheap and cheerful.
Cost: Q30 for an hour
Other facilities: There’s a tiny tienda attached without cold drinks, but the facilities of Almolonga are right outside.
How to get there: Uber charges Q30-40 or catch a bus from the Shell in Zona 1 of Xela https://maps.app.goo.gl/Ta1enCBA3E1okzUJ9 to Almolonga (Q5). Easy and frequent public transport directly outside makes it easy to get back to Xela.
Location: https://maps.app.goo.gl/j593fES6sbisHLk76
Baños Medicinales Santa María
Rating:
Type: Private indoor hot springs
Pluses: Easy to access and seems well maintained.
Minuses: Pick a pool on the side away from the road if you want to reduce being serenaded by passing trucks. The one time I went there, the admin guy was knocking on the door after 50 minutes, compared to the far more relaxed attitude of every other hourly hot pool place near Xela.
Cost: Q30 an hour.
Other facilities: Tiny tienda.
How to get there: Uber charges Q50-60 from downtown Xela. Otherwise you can catch a bus (Q7) from the Shell in Zona 1 of Xela https://maps.app.goo.gl/Ta1enCBA3E1okzUJ9 to Zunil. The baños is very close to the bus stop.
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